Buying a Kitten

It might seem easy to walk up to a bunch of kittens and fall in love with one, but using a bit more of the head than the heart can make life easier for both you and the cat.The first thing to ask is whether you want a purebred (pedigree) kitten or just a domestic one (a "moggie"). Domestic kittens are easy to come by, but unfortunately there's a reason for that - usually they come from homes where the kittens were unexpected or unplanned, so you never quite know what kind of animal it will grow up to be. While some domestic kittens can be marvellously affectionate and well-behaved, there are just as many that are violent, or antisocial, or less-than-healthy. They do have the advantage of price, though. Purebred kittens usually come from breeders - and there are two kinds, the Registered ones and the Backyard ones. Again, the kittens come in all kinds of behaviour, appearance and health, so whichever you choose, do your homework *before* you fall in love with a purring tiny ball.Vaccinations, Worming and HealthIf the kitten for sale is not vaccinated, why not? What ages was it vaccinated? Ask to see the paperwork from the vet. Ask when it was last wormed and when it would be next due. A "free" kitten is the only excuse for being unvaccinated - and personally I still find this irresponsible - the mother's owner should have desexed the cat if they weren't prepared to care for kittens. Check the kitten's eyes have no weep, and that there is no noticeable material in its ears. The kitten should tolerate being handled even if it doesn't want to snuggle in your lap (remember, not all kittens are affectionate to strangers, just like humans). A kitten who hisses at a stranger for no reason is badly socialised should be rejected immediately.AgeThe *correct* age to buy a kitten is AFTER 9 WEEKS OLD. Sure, they are not as cute as 5 or 6 week kittens, but litter trays and food are not the only thing a kitten has to learn! Socialising is very important to end up with a friendly adult. Kittens sold at very young ages often do these things: "mark" the floor in the wrong places, even as adults; "knead" your lap with claws, even as adults; suck on blankets etc. In addition some kittens taken from their mothers very early can be aggressive or the opposite - they may not understand any fear at all which might be dangerous to them later on.Different sellersIf it's a breeder, ask about their registration. Ask to see the mother, and the parents' pedigrees, even if your new baby will not be sold with papers. You do not need pedigree papers if you've seen the parents and you don't plan to show or breed your cat. A reputable breeder will sell the kitten desexed and microchipped. Microchipping is the law in NSW and a good idea anyway. Some council areas require the kitten to be desexed. If you do not plan to become a proper, registered breeder, then desex your kitten before 16 weeks old. There are too many poor little things on death row at the RSPCA to bring unwanted kittens into the world - and both males AND females can stink your house out with foul spray if they are not desexed. The kitten will not wait until one year old to get active sexually, so don't put it off until later - it is well known that younger kittens "bounce back" from desexing operations much faster.PLEASE - if you want a moggie, ask your local vet or the RSPCA. Sadly,they often have kittens that have been dumped, and will often sell themfor just the cost of desexing, worming, de-fleaing, vaccinating andmicrochipping. Most vets are wonderful people and deserve a medal for the time they give to dumped kittens.PLEASE - do not buy from a pet shop. I guarantee you will pay far more than the kitten is actually worth. That's a promise. I have seen "purebred" kittens for more than $800 when I know that breed sells for $350. On top of that, usually it will not have papers, pedigree, desexing or even basic immunisation, or microchipping, worming, or flea treatment. And here are the lies that different pet shops have used:"It's illegal to desex a kitten for sale in a pet shop" - FALSE! They use this as an excuse for being too IRRESPONSIBLE to do it."This breed is always this expensive." - RUBBISH. Most "purebred" kittens in a pet shop have NO PAPERS, and you never find out who bred them or what the kitten really is at all! Its mother and father might be brother and sister or the father might be the stray tom cat from down the street. Are you sure that the kitten will not have serious health problems?"Oh, kittens only need one vaccination and one worming in their first year." - LIES! Your local vet will tell you which ones you need and how often, which depends on how the kitten will live and where. But it is ALWAYS more than this!"You should not use flea treatment on a kitten." - Pardon?"Kittens are ready for their new home as soon as they are litter trained." - No, they're not - and pet shops are the worst offenders for selling them when they are much too tiny. They know you'll love the tinier ones more and pay more for it. They don't care that it is worse for the cat.Buying from a pet shop just encourages the backyard breeders - the people who grab two random cats of the same breed, stick them together and don't care about the kittens except for the $ signs. They often continue to breed cats that have health problems or the "wrong" features for that breed. Proper breeders choose parents carefully, space out litters to ensure the health of the mother, and make sure the kittens are perfectly healthy, well-socialised - and NEVER sold in a pet shop! A reputable breeder will invite you to their home. The kittens will be amongst the family and used to normal house noises (not the noise of a glass cage at the pet shop).There is a wealth of information on the internet on which breed is right for you. Look around and get some information before you are face to face with the kittens. It's hard to walk away if they make you fall in love!