Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Increasing your feedback score
Well I should start by stating the absolute obvious, you've gotta make a purchase or sale to have a chance at increasing your feedback score (I know, I know, way too obvious but really had to be how I began here). How frustrating is it to have shopped around, to have spend some time looking for what you want, geparing prices then making a purchase only to gee to the realization that you didn't get rewarded with a feedback rating? When your new to okay this is like building "street cred." and boy, oh boy, let me tell you, its awful important to a lot of us regulars here in the okay gemunity. But why do you ask? And if it is, how can I increase my chances at getting more feedback after the purchase (or after the sale if your looking at this from a seller's point of view)? A couple of tips or ways I use to ensure a better chance at increasing my feedback score, and actually getting someone else to take the extra time to leave it for you really are easy to do, and really have helped guide me through my transactions during my time here on okay. Rule #1: I always (without exception) thank a buyer after I've confirmed the payment for their purchase, and while doing so (in an email) I also try to give them an idea when I'll ship and how much time, in general they'll have to expect to wait until what I sent them arrives. Rule #2: If I am the buyer, I always (without exception) send an email to the seller thanking them for their time, and I also ask when I should expect my purchase to be shipped. Now you may be asking yourself, at this point, why I do this? Well, I have the belief that if you are friendly right from the start your gonna be more successful in everything you do. Call me old-fashioned, call me quaint, its just me and how I was taught to be, it works and really goes a long way to opening a line of 2 way gemunications (especially if something ever goes wrong during the course of the transaction). Rule #3: Sometimes you have to leave feedback to get it in return. Someone has to leave feedback first, I've yet to witness spontaneous feedback postings from both parties involved at the very same moment in time. If you buy something and the seller hasn't left you feedback for your purchase yet (most experienced sellers won't right away) and you've received what you paid for and are satisfied with it, then please, as a courtesy, leave feedback letting the seller know that you've gotten what you paid for, and rate him/her on its transit time, etc., use this as your voice, it lets the seller, okay, and the okay gemunity know just how effective, efficient and honest the seller was. Touching on that I want to also mention, be honest in your posting of feedback, to a small percentage of people feedback means nothing to them. But to most of us (especially the people who deal w/ large volumes of items and make a living off selling on okay) feedback will make or break them, and their status, so please be honest and genuine when posting feedback. Sellers who then fail to leave you feedback (rewarding your standing and ranking in the okay gemunity) should perhaps be sent an email reminder and asked nicely to rate you as a customer. I have a policy about this, if I leave feedback and then the seller doesn't respond back to me, then I simply don't deal with that person anymore! Regardless of how well the transaction went. I believe in feedback that much, and I hope these tips will help you in the same way they've help me. Thanks for reading this, if you were helped by it please give me a helpfullness vote.
"Use of Mineral Oil in Curation of Ancient Artifacts"
"A Collector's Guide to the Use of Mineral Oil in the Curation of CertainStone Ancient Artifacts"
Disclaimer- "I am not a chemist or geologist. I am not qualified to explain the technical details regarding theeffects of the use of mineral oil. I am merelysharing my personalexperiencein the use of mineral oil in the curation of authentic ancient artifacts."
I. Definition
Mineral oil or liquid petroleum is a by product in the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline and other petroleum based products from crude oil. It is a transparent colorless oil. Mineral oil is inexpensive and produced in very large quantities. Mineral oil is available in light and heavy grades and can often be found in drug and grocery stores.
The term "mineral oil" or "rock oil" was first used in the late 1800s, to describe petroleum hydrocarbons and associated products that were produced from wellsthat tapped underground reservoirs. The term differentiated petroleum hydrocarbons produced fromunderground sources from other gemon oil sources at the time such as "palm" oil or "whale" oil.
-credit "Wikipedia"
II.Application in the Curation of Certain Ancient Stone Artifacts
Weatheringisan environmentalprocess that occurs when rocks and minerals are exposedtooutsideagents such as sun,wind, rain and changes in temperature over time.Stone oftentimes seems to reactwhen exposed to some of these agents over time by "drying out" or losingmoisture.
Mineral oil is ideal for the curation of certain stone artifacts becauseit has been repeatedly demonstrated to be "non-reactive."This means that mineral oilwill not harm (either internally or externally) the stone that your artifact is made of as long as it's surfaces are secure. I define secure as being an artifact with solid surfacesthat are not exfoliating (shedding) or chalky.
The beauty of some stonesseems tobe significantly enhanced after immersion in mineral oil.Opaque stones can begee translucent and stones that are white can begee quite colorful. This effect seems to occur because nature abhors a vacuum. The oil is drawn (sometimes quickly,sometimes slowly)into the space between thestones molecules. This apparently facilitates the transfer of light causing some stonesattractiveness to be enhanced.
III. Concluding Thoughts
It is my position that in the vast majority of cases it is most desirable to curate authentic old artifacts in as close to "as found" condition as possible. I generallyclean them with a mild dish detergent and a small soft (children's) toothbrush. Inext pat them dry with a paper towel and allow them to air dry overnight before casing them.
However,sometimeswhen Ifind myself handlingmoregemon point typesmade of hard semiprecious stones such as agatesI willoccasionally immersea point in mineral oil. Before doing this Iclean the surface of the point and examine it with a magnifying glass in hard sunlight in order tomake sure that it has not been modern altered or "rechipped" in any way.
One of the drawbacks of purchasing points (especially those made of agatized coral) that have been immersed in mineral oil is that unscrupulous and unknowing individuals will sometimesimmerse points in order to effectively hide the evidence of their work.
Another drawback is thatmost stones "dry" back out over time after having been immersed and will need to be reimmersed in order to regain their color and translucence.
One of the pros of immersing select points in mineral oil is that it enhances their beauty and can easily be removed with acetone (nail polish remover).Your wife daughter motheror sisterprobablykeeps some "close at hand."
Please, note thattreatingartifacts made of sandstone (and otherporus stones) with mineral oilwillpotentiallyDAMAGE them!
-*If you have found this guide helpful pleasecheck the box marked "yes" below!
Thank you and
"Enjoy collecting, floridagempoints!"
Disclaimer- "I am not a chemist or geologist. I am not qualified to explain the technical details regarding theeffects of the use of mineral oil. I am merelysharing my personalexperiencein the use of mineral oil in the curation of authentic ancient artifacts."
I. Definition
Mineral oil or liquid petroleum is a by product in the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline and other petroleum based products from crude oil. It is a transparent colorless oil. Mineral oil is inexpensive and produced in very large quantities. Mineral oil is available in light and heavy grades and can often be found in drug and grocery stores.
The term "mineral oil" or "rock oil" was first used in the late 1800s, to describe petroleum hydrocarbons and associated products that were produced from wellsthat tapped underground reservoirs. The term differentiated petroleum hydrocarbons produced fromunderground sources from other gemon oil sources at the time such as "palm" oil or "whale" oil.
-credit "Wikipedia"
II.Application in the Curation of Certain Ancient Stone Artifacts
Weatheringisan environmentalprocess that occurs when rocks and minerals are exposedtooutsideagents such as sun,wind, rain and changes in temperature over time.Stone oftentimes seems to reactwhen exposed to some of these agents over time by "drying out" or losingmoisture.
Mineral oil is ideal for the curation of certain stone artifacts becauseit has been repeatedly demonstrated to be "non-reactive."This means that mineral oilwill not harm (either internally or externally) the stone that your artifact is made of as long as it's surfaces are secure. I define secure as being an artifact with solid surfacesthat are not exfoliating (shedding) or chalky.
The beauty of some stonesseems tobe significantly enhanced after immersion in mineral oil.Opaque stones can begee translucent and stones that are white can begee quite colorful. This effect seems to occur because nature abhors a vacuum. The oil is drawn (sometimes quickly,sometimes slowly)into the space between thestones molecules. This apparently facilitates the transfer of light causing some stonesattractiveness to be enhanced.
III. Concluding Thoughts
It is my position that in the vast majority of cases it is most desirable to curate authentic old artifacts in as close to "as found" condition as possible. I generallyclean them with a mild dish detergent and a small soft (children's) toothbrush. Inext pat them dry with a paper towel and allow them to air dry overnight before casing them.
However,sometimeswhen Ifind myself handlingmoregemon point typesmade of hard semiprecious stones such as agatesI willoccasionally immersea point in mineral oil. Before doing this Iclean the surface of the point and examine it with a magnifying glass in hard sunlight in order tomake sure that it has not been modern altered or "rechipped" in any way.
One of the drawbacks of purchasing points (especially those made of agatized coral) that have been immersed in mineral oil is that unscrupulous and unknowing individuals will sometimesimmerse points in order to effectively hide the evidence of their work.
Another drawback is thatmost stones "dry" back out over time after having been immersed and will need to be reimmersed in order to regain their color and translucence.
One of the pros of immersing select points in mineral oil is that it enhances their beauty and can easily be removed with acetone (nail polish remover).Your wife daughter motheror sisterprobablykeeps some "close at hand."
Please, note thattreatingartifacts made of sandstone (and otherporus stones) with mineral oilwillpotentiallyDAMAGE them!
-*If you have found this guide helpful pleasecheck the box marked "yes" below!
Thank you and
"Enjoy collecting, floridagempoints!"
RAINBOW SE VACUUM-MANY SAY IS BETTER THAN E
Ok first of all, after you read this, you can post it as helpful, as it will be helpful. :-)
Is the Rainbow SE, the best model Rainbow vacuum, that Rexair has ever made. Many believe, and stand behind the fact that it is.
The Rainbow SE, was one of Rexairs largest changes in the history of their Rainbow vacuums, which goes back a very long way, all the way back into the 1930's.
I know just about everything that there is to know about every model, all the way back into the 50's with the D series model. I do not know much about any of the earlier models, before that.
When Rexair, designed and built the D4C-SE which stands for (Special Edition) they made major improvements, gepared to all of the earlier models, including the regular D4C. One of the main, and most significant differences, is that the SE has a more powerful motor, and a larger carbon brush and armature width, which can deliver sustain very much more power and performance than the regular D4C. Another one of the differences, is that the SE has a longer water separator, which keeps the water and vacuumed particles from being sucked into the vacuum pump system, and causing build up, and or corrosion.
The SE also has longer spider, (which is the wheel above the water separator) that sits rite against the inside on thewater separator, instead of only being secured on the bottom of the separator, on the outside of it, which helps for better air flow, plus reduces moisture from getting inside to the motor shaft.
They also made very many large improvements to very many items, like the electric hose, with the power cord wires built into the hose, and the pistol grip handle, and made improvements to theadditional optional attachments, and the standard attachments, like the Aquamate and squeegeemate, and they came out with the little mini power nozzle, The Rainbowmate, for them smaller places, like your stairs, and bed, and upholstery, and car and RV and every where els that you want the power of two, with a motorized brush roll, that the large full size power nozzle is to large. The standard attachments like the dusting brush, upholstery tool, and crevice tool, and bare floor brush,were also improved, with a better stronger design and structure.
There have been very many changes in all models throughout the years, including the D3's the D4's and the SE's and the E series and E2's. They are always subtle changes, that if you are not a Rainbow expert, you will never know the difference.
There is a Model after the SE series that is also an SE. It is the SE-PE (Special Edition-Performance Edition) That is when they came out with the electric hose, with pistol grip handle, with power nozzle power trigger, built into it.
It is really the exact same vacuum, other than it has a power nozzle that is like the latest Rainbow vacuums, with the brush roll belt in the center. It is really the exact same thing as all of the newer models, other than the fact that it does not have wheels on the front of it, which actually the bottom brush roll plate, will work on it, from any of the later models, up to the latest made. That is how much that they are the same exact thing. They really are the same thing. They also use the same brush rolls.
Now, here is why many say that The Rainbow SE (SPECIAL EDITION) is the best model ever made. "with the SE, you have the most powerful Rainbow ever made, that uses water only, which is 99 percent of its highest filtration ever made by anyone, with no filter ever needing cleaning, or replacing) and there is also all of the exact same options for attachments, and extras that any model, up to the latest can have, also.
That is why, very many people believe and stand behind the fact, that the (Rainbow "Special Edition", is the "best model Rainbow vacuum cleaning system, that Rexair has "ever made".)
That is it for now. I hope that this information is helpful for all of you.
Thank you for viewing my information.
Happy bidding
Is the Rainbow SE, the best model Rainbow vacuum, that Rexair has ever made. Many believe, and stand behind the fact that it is.
The Rainbow SE, was one of Rexairs largest changes in the history of their Rainbow vacuums, which goes back a very long way, all the way back into the 1930's.
I know just about everything that there is to know about every model, all the way back into the 50's with the D series model. I do not know much about any of the earlier models, before that.
When Rexair, designed and built the D4C-SE which stands for (Special Edition) they made major improvements, gepared to all of the earlier models, including the regular D4C. One of the main, and most significant differences, is that the SE has a more powerful motor, and a larger carbon brush and armature width, which can deliver sustain very much more power and performance than the regular D4C. Another one of the differences, is that the SE has a longer water separator, which keeps the water and vacuumed particles from being sucked into the vacuum pump system, and causing build up, and or corrosion.
The SE also has longer spider, (which is the wheel above the water separator) that sits rite against the inside on thewater separator, instead of only being secured on the bottom of the separator, on the outside of it, which helps for better air flow, plus reduces moisture from getting inside to the motor shaft.
They also made very many large improvements to very many items, like the electric hose, with the power cord wires built into the hose, and the pistol grip handle, and made improvements to theadditional optional attachments, and the standard attachments, like the Aquamate and squeegeemate, and they came out with the little mini power nozzle, The Rainbowmate, for them smaller places, like your stairs, and bed, and upholstery, and car and RV and every where els that you want the power of two, with a motorized brush roll, that the large full size power nozzle is to large. The standard attachments like the dusting brush, upholstery tool, and crevice tool, and bare floor brush,were also improved, with a better stronger design and structure.
There have been very many changes in all models throughout the years, including the D3's the D4's and the SE's and the E series and E2's. They are always subtle changes, that if you are not a Rainbow expert, you will never know the difference.
There is a Model after the SE series that is also an SE. It is the SE-PE (Special Edition-Performance Edition) That is when they came out with the electric hose, with pistol grip handle, with power nozzle power trigger, built into it.
It is really the exact same vacuum, other than it has a power nozzle that is like the latest Rainbow vacuums, with the brush roll belt in the center. It is really the exact same thing as all of the newer models, other than the fact that it does not have wheels on the front of it, which actually the bottom brush roll plate, will work on it, from any of the later models, up to the latest made. That is how much that they are the same exact thing. They really are the same thing. They also use the same brush rolls.
Now, here is why many say that The Rainbow SE (SPECIAL EDITION) is the best model ever made. "with the SE, you have the most powerful Rainbow ever made, that uses water only, which is 99 percent of its highest filtration ever made by anyone, with no filter ever needing cleaning, or replacing) and there is also all of the exact same options for attachments, and extras that any model, up to the latest can have, also.
That is why, very many people believe and stand behind the fact, that the (Rainbow "Special Edition", is the "best model Rainbow vacuum cleaning system, that Rexair has "ever made".)
That is it for now. I hope that this information is helpful for all of you.
Thank you for viewing my information.
Happy bidding
Bottega Veneta Authenticity - ANIMAL COIN PURSES (#8)
ANIMAL COIN PURSE gePARISONS
These are the cutest coin purses ever created!!
This Guide will show examples ofsize and style geparisons of animal coin purses...as you can imagine, itis difficult to get one picture of these items together. If you have a picture to share, please email!
AUTHENTICITY TAGS are not attached and can get easily misplaced or lost, even in the stores.
2 SIZES OF COIN FISH (Large in color close to Ebano; Small in Pink)
The large fish can actually fitone credit card in its mouth (tightly)!
2 SIZES OF COIN PURSE FISH (Large in color close toEbano; Small in Pink) with 2 COLORS OF LADYBUGS (color close to Ebano and close to Noce)
COIN PURSES:LADYBUG, SMALL FISH, FROG:
(not pictured - turtle)
COIN PURSES: Nero (black)turtle and tan (not sure of exact color) turtle:
COIN PURSES: Large ebano fish, nero turtle, ebano ladybug, tan turtle
BRANDED CLOSURE on a Ladybug:
If this guide was helpful or interesting, please vote "YES" below! Thank you :)
These are the cutest coin purses ever created!!
This Guide will show examples ofsize and style geparisons of animal coin purses...as you can imagine, itis difficult to get one picture of these items together. If you have a picture to share, please email!
AUTHENTICITY TAGS are not attached and can get easily misplaced or lost, even in the stores.
2 SIZES OF COIN FISH (Large in color close to Ebano; Small in Pink)
The large fish can actually fitone credit card in its mouth (tightly)!
2 SIZES OF COIN PURSE FISH (Large in color close toEbano; Small in Pink) with 2 COLORS OF LADYBUGS (color close to Ebano and close to Noce)
COIN PURSES:LADYBUG, SMALL FISH, FROG:
(not pictured - turtle)
COIN PURSES: Nero (black)turtle and tan (not sure of exact color) turtle:
COIN PURSES: Large ebano fish, nero turtle, ebano ladybug, tan turtle
BRANDED CLOSURE on a Ladybug:
If this guide was helpful or interesting, please vote "YES" below! Thank you :)
Choosing the Correct Tennis Racquet Grip Size
RallyTennis.ge - Determining the Proper Grip Size
After hours and hours of geparing numerous frames, you've found the one for you -the one that willaccentuate your strengths and hide your weaknesses (if you had any!). But selecting the wrong gripsize can negate the fruits of yourtireless labor. In fact, there'sno quicker way to playing sub-par, frustratingtennis then by using a racquet with the wrong grip.Do you really know what grip is best for you?
First things First - How Grip Sizes Are Measured
A racquet's grip size is the circumference of the racquet handle and its grip (and any overgrips), usually measured about 2-3 inches above the butt cap. Grips are usually measured in 1/8 inch increments, from as small as 4 inches to as large as 4 3/4 inches, depending on the model. Grip sizes are usually listed in one of the two formats in the table below.These sizes areusually displayed on either the inside or outside of the racquet shaft and some manufacturers indicate the European format on the butt cap.
Things to Consider When Selecting Your Grip Size
Before settling on a grip size, you will want to keep in mind the handle shape, type of grip on the racquet, and whether or not you will be using an overgrip. Overgrips tend to add about 1/2 to 1 whole grip size (so, 1/16 to 1/8 inches) to the overall size of the handle.
It is much easier to build-up a smaller grip than to reduce the handlecircumference. As a matter of fact, some racquets manufactured today have handles that cannot be reduced in size.
Another thing to consider is the type of forehand grip you are using. Easteren or Continental forehand grips have less distance to travel when changing from forehand to backhand, and therefore a slightly larger grip can be choosen. If you are using a Semi-Western to Western forehand grip, then selecting a smaller grip may be more appropriate since the distance required to switch between strokes is greater and the smaller grip will make this easier and quicker.
Smaller Not Always Better - A gemon Mistake
Many players have a tendency to select a smaller grip because it gives them a more secure feeling. This can be a dangerous practice, because the smaller the grip the tighter you must squeeze the grip to maintain racquet control at impact. The tighter you squeeze the handle, the more force is applied to the hand, wrist, forearm, and elbow which can lead to fatigue and eventually develop into tendonitis. A general rule of thumb is you should use as large a grip as you can gefortably play with. Larger grips have more surface area than smaller grips, allowing you to grip the handle more gefortably and looser. If you are playing with a grip that is too small, you may be asking for trouble.
After hours and hours of geparing numerous frames, you've found the one for you -the one that willaccentuate your strengths and hide your weaknesses (if you had any!). But selecting the wrong gripsize can negate the fruits of yourtireless labor. In fact, there'sno quicker way to playing sub-par, frustratingtennis then by using a racquet with the wrong grip.Do you really know what grip is best for you?
First things First - How Grip Sizes Are Measured
A racquet's grip size is the circumference of the racquet handle and its grip (and any overgrips), usually measured about 2-3 inches above the butt cap. Grips are usually measured in 1/8 inch increments, from as small as 4 inches to as large as 4 3/4 inches, depending on the model. Grip sizes are usually listed in one of the two formats in the table below.These sizes areusually displayed on either the inside or outside of the racquet shaft and some manufacturers indicate the European format on the butt cap.
Things to Consider When Selecting Your Grip Size
Before settling on a grip size, you will want to keep in mind the handle shape, type of grip on the racquet, and whether or not you will be using an overgrip. Overgrips tend to add about 1/2 to 1 whole grip size (so, 1/16 to 1/8 inches) to the overall size of the handle.
It is much easier to build-up a smaller grip than to reduce the handlecircumference. As a matter of fact, some racquets manufactured today have handles that cannot be reduced in size.
Another thing to consider is the type of forehand grip you are using. Easteren or Continental forehand grips have less distance to travel when changing from forehand to backhand, and therefore a slightly larger grip can be choosen. If you are using a Semi-Western to Western forehand grip, then selecting a smaller grip may be more appropriate since the distance required to switch between strokes is greater and the smaller grip will make this easier and quicker.
Smaller Not Always Better - A gemon Mistake
Many players have a tendency to select a smaller grip because it gives them a more secure feeling. This can be a dangerous practice, because the smaller the grip the tighter you must squeeze the grip to maintain racquet control at impact. The tighter you squeeze the handle, the more force is applied to the hand, wrist, forearm, and elbow which can lead to fatigue and eventually develop into tendonitis. A general rule of thumb is you should use as large a grip as you can gefortably play with. Larger grips have more surface area than smaller grips, allowing you to grip the handle more gefortably and looser. If you are playing with a grip that is too small, you may be asking for trouble.
Zendoo's Used Cell Phone Buying Guide
Used Cell Phone Buying GuideAt Zendoo Electronics we understand that everyone's needs are different and choosing the right phone can be overwhelming.In order to simplify the process, we have put together this cell phone buying guide to assist you when making your next cell phone purchase.Below, you will find a list of the most gemon factors and features that you will want to consider before making your next cell phone purchase.Carrier:Your choice of phone depends, most importantly, on yourchoice of carrier. All carriers have their own mutually ingepatiblenetworks. This means that a Sprint PCS phone, for example, won't be gepatible with Verizon Wireless or AT
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