Canon EF Upgrade Lens Guide For EOS Digital SLR Cameras

What is the best combination of better quality lenses to use withmy semi-pro or consumer grade Canon EOS digital SLR Camera? To answerthat question, I have compiled a list of lenses that I have personallyfound to be the best choices for my style of photography and budget(maybe yours too). This Buyers Guide specifically applies to owners of the Canon EOSDigital Rebel, Digital Rebel XT, XTi, EOS D60, 40D, 30D, 20D and 10DDigital SLR camera bodies. These particular models all share one very important attribute; they have a digital image sensor, which is smaller than the physicaldimensions of a full single frame of 35mm film. This has a profoundeffect on lens selection. These SLR cameras all have a crop factor of1.6 X, which must be considered carefully as you are shopping for alens for any particular application. The focal length of any lens thatwill be used on these models must be multiplied by 1.6 to reveal the Effective Focal Length (or more accurately, the apparent "Field of View"). This has certain advantages and disadvantages that you must takeinto account as you search for the right lens to capture the imagesthat you want. The good news is that an affordable 200mm long telephotolens instantly displays the apparent "Field of View" of a 320mm monster telephoto on these models, andthe extra visual reach comes with no additional cost! You also gain some extra "Depth of Field" and, most importantly, the maximum aperture (speed) of the lens still remains the same. Not a bad deal when it comes to your longer lenses. However, the bad newsis that if you need a true wide-angle lens, you must buy a much moreexpensive Ultra-Wide angle model to get the desired results. If you are into "birding" or sports photography, where you need afast, long telephoto, this can be a huge advantage! Conversely, if youspecialize in large group shots or interior architecture, get ready topay for at least one fairly expensive lens to meet your special needs. There are full frame Professional digital camerasavailable that eliminate the need for crop factor compensation. As anexample, the super expensive EOS 1Ds Mark II or the more reasonablypriced EOS 5D. These models do not have the same lens selectionrequirements as the camera models that are listed above, and therefore,these full Frame bodies are not the subject of this particular guide.With all of this taken into consideration, I can recommendan excellent combination of better quality upgrade Canon EFauto-focus lenses that will cover the most popular effective focallengths on your "small frame" or APS Digital SLR. These are the lensmodels that I personally use most frequently on my EOS 10D. Remember,this guide applies specifically to photographers who want professionalquality results, but need to get the best performance available for theprice. I know that there are numerous better and faster lensesavailable. I am trying to narrow the choices down to the high valuemodels that offer professional performance at a fairly reasonableprice. For photogs on a more limited budget, please read my otherlens guide, titled Canon EF Affordable Lens Guide For EOS DigitalSLRs. Canon EF Affordable Lens GuideI will start at the wide end, because it is the most critical range on these cameras. The Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L USMis a true ultra-wideto wide-angle professional zoom, ideal for landscapes, interiorarchitectural photos, large group portraits, artistic wide-angle shots,real estate and exterior architectural photography.The Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L USM "Ultra-Wide to Wide Angle" Professional Zoom Lens This is a sensibly affordable alternative to the Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L professional lens.Unlike the 16-35 L, this one is within the budget of many serious photobuffs, but it is not quite as fast with a constant aperture of 1:4.It sells for about half the price of its one stop faster brother. This lens is threaded for 77mm filters and accessories. It has theHEAVY DUTY construction and weather protected design that workingprofessionals require. This beauty features a true ultra-wide anglerange, with an angle of view of 74 to 29. It has a very useful closeminimum focus distance of only 11 inches. There are 12 lens elements in9 groups, the rear group performs all focusing functions. This lens isvery comfortable to carry around, as it only weighs just 17.5 ouncesand is a mere 3.8 inches long. It is not a feather weight but for thetrue pro it is a very manageable size and weight. This outstandinglens employs Canons top-of-the-line, ultra fastand quiet, Ring Type Ultrasonic Auto-Focus design. Manual focusingand zooming are performed buy two very easy to grip rings that are wellpositioned for fast and accurate adjustments. Auto or Manual focusingis selected by an AF-MF switch, which is conveniently located to makeswitching very fast and easy. THIS IS AN FTM LENS, "FTM" stands forFull-Time Manual focus. This feature allows you to make focusadjustments at any time, even WHILE THE AF SYSTEM IS ENGAGED! This isan awesome feature that I use almost constantly. The front lens groupdoes not rotate while focusing or zooming, making it very convenient touse polarizing and special effects filters. The rear element InternalFocus design also means that the lens does not change in length duringzooming or focusing. These professional features insure that focusingwill always be lightning fast, very precise and dead silent, in anyenvironment. Image quality is superb! Sharpness and contrast arefantastic throughout the entire zoom range, truly equal to very goodprime lenses. Flare is very well controlled, thanks to the use of threeaspherical elements and Super UD (Ultra-Low Dispersion) glass. Thisis a very solid professional lens that will serve you well for many,many years to come. I think the EF 17-40mm L USM actually has some important advantagesover the more expensive EF 16-35mm L. Distortion looks slightly bettercontrolled and sharpness is maybe just a bit more crisp. Picturesproduced through this lens are absolutely tack sharp with greatcontrast and are very rich in color saturation. The EF 17-40 f/4L is considerablysmaller and lighter too. When it is used on a Canon Digital Rebel XTi or 40D, this isapproximately equivalent to a 28-70mm zoom lens. That's due to the 1.6X "crop factor" magnification. That makes it appear like more of a Wide-Angle toNormal Zoom on these cameras. This lens would probably stay on yourdigital camera most of the time. It covers most of your normal andwide focal range needs. At about $800.00 (US) new, it is not cheap, but asyour most versatile and heavily used lens, it will prove to be worthevery penny in the long run. To cover your normal focal range requirements, I canwhole-heartedly recommend a choice of two extremely good mid grade models that havebeen very highly praised for outstanding performance; The Canon EF24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM or the EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 USM. Let's start with the EF24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM. This affordable little lens is currently available and very easy tofind for under $400.00. This is a genuine bargain, when compared to theprofessional L lenses in this focal range which sell for well over$1,100.00 and up. This shouldbring a giant sigh of relief toanyone who has just shelled-out the big bucks for a 17-40 L. Thisvery compact ultra-wide angle to telephoto zoom lens is quitecomfortable to tote around and incredibly versatile. The Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM "Ultra-Wide to Telephoto" ZoomLensThis model was designed by Canon to be a little wider than the EF 28-105mm 3.5-4.5 II USM,but not quite as long in the telephoto range. It is light and compactbut it does not sacrifice anything when it comes to optical ormechanical performance. This lens has excellent optics, capable of capturing very crisp images with excellent color and very impressive contrast.TheEF 24-85mm USMalso has Full-Time Manual focus so you can make finefocus adjustments, while the AF switch is activated, just like the Llens. This is especially useful for setting the exact focus point in aclose-up shot. It will allow you to dramatically emphasize a particularpicture element while other parts of the image are intentionallyblurred by a narrow depth-of-field. This inexpensive little workhorse also uses the top-of-the-Line Ring type USM Ultrasonic Auto-Focus design.There are 15 lens elements arranged in 12 groups. Focusing is performedinternally, so the front lens does not move as the focus is adjusted,making it much easier to use polarizing and special effects filters.These are the samefeatures that are also found on the much more costlyL professional models! The zoom ring is very comfortable to useandquickly goes from 24mm all the way out to 85mm in about an eighth of aturn. The barrel extends out for zooming, but the front lens elementdoes not rotate at all. The position of the zoom ring relative to thefocus ring makes this lens very easy to use, but the focus ring is abit skinnier and rotates a little less smoothly than the focus griponthe expensiveLs. This is a very small "gripe", when you consider thereasonable price, and it does not affect the lenses "usability" at all. When mounted on a small frame Digital, this is approximately equivalent to a 38-136mm zoom lens.This is a great focal range for portraits, nature shots, streetphotography, landscapes and general normal range photography. This isa perfect mate to use with a Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L ultra-wide anglezoom. This model is very compact in size, about 2.75 long at 24mm to4 at full zoom. It is very light-weight at only 13.5 oz. It has a nicesolid "feel" with fairly smooth operation, although not quite up to thesilky feel of the L models. Auto-focusing is lightning fast andwhisper quiet (even quieter than the L models with the exact samering type motor, for some reason). The ultra-wide angle to short telephoto range make this a fantastic walk around lens. You will find that it will probably stay on your camera at least as much as the EF 17-40 L. This is definitely one of the best and most versatile mid-grade lenses ever produced for the Canon EOS camera line.I have recently started using this model much more frequently, afterdepending upon the EF 28-105mm f.3/5-4.5 USM to cover the normal zoomrange for many years. As I have upgraded to more professional grade lenses, I began tonotice that I really needed my "normal" zoom to coverthe extra wideanglerange much more often than I needed the longer focal range of the28-105mm. The overlap of coverage with the EF 17-40mm f/4L is perfectfor most interior applications. I love my 17-40mm, there are manyapplications where this lens is indispensable, but there are times whenthe extra weight and the requirement of adding a Speedlight flash tothe camera can be an inconvenience. This is especially true for casualshots and impromptu family photos. The 24mm range allows me to use theEF 24-85mm in places where I would have been required to switch fromthe EF 28-105mm to the heavier ultra-wide lens. I still have the optionof switching to the L when I need to, but now it is a choice, not anecessity.If you prefer a "Normal" range zoom thatgoes a bit longer, The EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 USM would be an excellent alternative to the EF 24-85mm. A lot of additional information is available here: Canon EF 28-105mm USM Lens Buying GuideThe Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 MACRO USMThe EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 Macro USM is very affordably priced.However, be certain to find the best version. Avoid the earlier modelwith the yellow flower on it instead of the actual word "MACRO". Also,it is important to get one that was Made in Japan. As stated above (but well worth repeating), avoid the new replacement model, the Canon EF 28-105mm f/4-5.6 USM. It is simply JUNK by comparison!Thiswonderfully compact wide-angle to telephoto zoom lens is reasonablylight and incredibly versatile. This model was designed by Canon to bea great "walking around" lens at a reasonable price. It is light andcompact but does not sacrifice too much in performance. It has verygood optics, capable of capturing crisp images with good color and veryimpressive contrast. The Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 MACRO USM is still considered to be a"Wide Angle to Telephoto" Zoom Lens. This model also has Full-TimeManual focus so you can make fine focus adjustments while the AFswitch in activated, just like the L lens. This is especially usefulfor setting the exact focus point in a close shot. It will allow you toemphasize a particular picture element while other parts of the imageare intentionally blurred by a narrow depth-of-field. This inexpensivelittle workhorse also uses the top-of-the-Line Ring type USMUltrasonic AF design. There are 15 lens elements arranged in 12 groups. Focusing isperformed internally, the front lens does not rotate, making it mucheasier to use polarizing and special effects filters. Again, these featuresare also found on the much more costly L professional models! Thezoom ring is comfortable to use and quickly goes from 28mm all the wayout to 105mm in about a quarter turn. The barrel extends out forzooming, but the front lens element does not rotate at all. Theposition of the zoom ring relative to the focus ring makes this lensvery easy to use. Image quality easily outperforms all of the popularstandard kit zooms. Sharpness and contrast are impressive throughoutthe entire zoom range. Flare and distortions are also respectablycontrolled. When used on a small frame Digital, this is approximately equivalentto a 45-170mm zoom lens. This is a great focal range for portraits,nature shots, landscapes and general normal photography. This is anexcellent mate to use with a Canon EF 20-35mm f/3.5-4.5 USM ultra-wideangle zoom. This model is very compact in size; about 3 long at 28mm to 4.75at full zoom. It is very lightweight at a bit over 13 oz. It has a nicesolid "feel" with fairly smooth operation, although not quite up to thesilky feel of the L lenses. Auto focusing is lightning fast andwhisper quiet. The wide angle to medium telephoto range make this asuperb walking around lens.The choice between these two excellent lenses is really a matter of personal preference. Youwill want the model that allows you to do most of your "normal"shooting with one lens, whenever that is necessary. If you need alittle more "reach" into the telephoto range, then choose the 28-105mm.If you take mostly interior pictures in limited spaces, you mightprefer the range of the 24-85mm. You would not be disappointed witheither of these outstanding models.I recommend at least one fast prime lens for use in low light situations, where the zooms just cant quite do the job. In this price category, I would suggest at least one ofthese two models. The Canon EF 24mm f/2.8 wide-angle prime or thediscontinued Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 MARK I normal prime lens. The Canon EF 24mm f/2.8 Wide Angle Prime Lens This is one of the MUST HAVE lenses for every serious photographers EOS camera bag.This model has a very easy to use manual focusing ring, a real distancescale window with a depth-of-field scale and an infrared compensationindicator. Auto-Focus is very fast and accurate, using the Arc FormDrive (AFD) mechanism. It is threaded for inexpensive 58mm filters andaccessories. It features the heavy-duty stainless steel lens mount.Much more detailed information is available at this eBay review: Canon EF 24mm f/2.8 Prime Lens ReviewThis is an excellent quality prime lens, it has even been comparedto "L" series professional lenses and was found to be surprisinglyclose in optical performance, but at a very reasonable price. You canreally get excellent depth-of-field with this lens! You will be amazedby how much of your subject can be kept in focus within the frame. Thislens also has an awesome minimum "close focus" distance of only 10",which allows you to capture incredibly detailed close-up shots! Zoom lenses are very convenient, but they tend to be slower, with awidest aperture of 3.5 or more. The EF 24mm f/2.8 has a respectablyfast aperture of 1:2.8, it "drinks in" plenty of light to allow you toget nice sharp pictures in less-than-ideal lighting situations. One ofthe main strengths of this lens is the lack of distortion, especiallyconsidering the focal length. You might have to compose your shots byusing your feet as the "zoom mechanism" (by stepping closer or fartheraway from your subject). This becomes insignificant considering thesuperior picture quality that you will capture. On non-full frame Digital SLRs, this lens approximately equal to a 39mm focal length.It is well-suited for all of your slightly wider than normal lensphotography. It becomes just as important as a standard 50mm lens on afilm body. The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 Normal Prime Lens This is one more of the MUST HAVE affordable lensesfor every Canon EOS camera bag. You will have to find this little gemin the second-hand market. They can be hard to find, but it will bewell worth the effort. This older model also has a very easy to use manual focusing ring, areal distance scale window with a depth-of-field scale. Auto-Focus isfast and accurate, using the AFD AF drive. It is not a quiet as the Lmodel, but check the price difference. If silence is worth a fewhundred bucks to you, be my guest. This model is threaded forinexpensive 52mm filters. Unlike the newest Mark II version, this onedoes have the heavy duty stainless steel lens mount, which are muchmore durable than the cheap plastic mounts found on the current Mk IImodel. This is a superb quality prime lens, it has been frequently compared to "L" series lenses and is famous for being surprisingly close in optical performance. The EF 50mm f/1.8 has a very fast aperture of 1:1.8, it needs verylittle light to allow you to get nice sharp pictures. As with the EF24mm, you will have to compose your shots by changing your distancefrom the subject, but what the heck, you need the exercise anyway. On Digital SLRs with the 1.6 "crop factor" this lens captures the Field of View of an80mm focal length. It is absolutely perfect for portrait photography.Since you dont need a flash, you can really get some fantasticcandid photos. It is so light and compact that you will barely knowthat it is there (which can be very helpful if your subject is "camera shy"). It is affordable, sharp as a razor, super fast anddistortion free. This tiny gem also has a very useful "close focus"distance of only 15", to let you get in there tight for all of thoseintricate details. OK, now that we have covered all of the essentials, there is one more lens to consider, a long telephoto. Again, I am recommending a reasonably priced true professional L model. The Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM Telephoto Zoom Lens The Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM Professional Telephoto Zoom Lens Ok, what can I say? It isnt cheap, but especiallyif you shoot outdoor sports, nature photography or bird watching thisis the ultimate long zoom lens for under a kilo-buck. You really command respect when you whip out your Canon EOS with this big white bazooka locked n loaded.You instantly become the Pro (whether you actually are or not). It isquite gratifying to watch the crowds part to let the realprofessional get a little closer to the action. If you prefer to notcall any attention to yourself, avoid this lens! Otherwise, be preparedfor the envious stares from the guys with the long skinny black lenses.On your 1.6 crop factor digital body, this offers the Field of View of a very long 112mm to 320mm super zoom.This is a real rough

Buying a Kitten

It might seem easy to walk up to a bunch of kittens and fall in love with one, but using a bit more of the head than the heart can make life easier for both you and the cat.The first thing to ask is whether you want a purebred (pedigree) kitten or just a domestic one (a "moggie"). Domestic kittens are easy to come by, but unfortunately there's a reason for that - usually they come from homes where the kittens were unexpected or unplanned, so you never quite know what kind of animal it will grow up to be. While some domestic kittens can be marvellously affectionate and well-behaved, there are just as many that are violent, or antisocial, or less-than-healthy. They do have the advantage of price, though. Purebred kittens usually come from breeders - and there are two kinds, the Registered ones and the Backyard ones. Again, the kittens come in all kinds of behaviour, appearance and health, so whichever you choose, do your homework *before* you fall in love with a purring tiny ball.Vaccinations, Worming and HealthIf the kitten for sale is not vaccinated, why not? What ages was it vaccinated? Ask to see the paperwork from the vet. Ask when it was last wormed and when it would be next due. A "free" kitten is the only excuse for being unvaccinated - and personally I still find this irresponsible - the mother's owner should have desexed the cat if they weren't prepared to care for kittens. Check the kitten's eyes have no weep, and that there is no noticeable material in its ears. The kitten should tolerate being handled even if it doesn't want to snuggle in your lap (remember, not all kittens are affectionate to strangers, just like humans). A kitten who hisses at a stranger for no reason is badly socialised should be rejected immediately.AgeThe *correct* age to buy a kitten is AFTER 9 WEEKS OLD. Sure, they are not as cute as 5 or 6 week kittens, but litter trays and food are not the only thing a kitten has to learn! Socialising is very important to end up with a friendly adult. Kittens sold at very young ages often do these things: "mark" the floor in the wrong places, even as adults; "knead" your lap with claws, even as adults; suck on blankets etc. In addition some kittens taken from their mothers very early can be aggressive or the opposite - they may not understand any fear at all which might be dangerous to them later on.Different sellersIf it's a breeder, ask about their registration. Ask to see the mother, and the parents' pedigrees, even if your new baby will not be sold with papers. You do not need pedigree papers if you've seen the parents and you don't plan to show or breed your cat. A reputable breeder will sell the kitten desexed and microchipped. Microchipping is the law in NSW and a good idea anyway. Some council areas require the kitten to be desexed. If you do not plan to become a proper, registered breeder, then desex your kitten before 16 weeks old. There are too many poor little things on death row at the RSPCA to bring unwanted kittens into the world - and both males AND females can stink your house out with foul spray if they are not desexed. The kitten will not wait until one year old to get active sexually, so don't put it off until later - it is well known that younger kittens "bounce back" from desexing operations much faster.PLEASE - if you want a moggie, ask your local vet or the RSPCA. Sadly,they often have kittens that have been dumped, and will often sell themfor just the cost of desexing, worming, de-fleaing, vaccinating andmicrochipping. Most vets are wonderful people and deserve a medal for the time they give to dumped kittens.PLEASE - do not buy from a pet shop. I guarantee you will pay far more than the kitten is actually worth. That's a promise. I have seen "purebred" kittens for more than $800 when I know that breed sells for $350. On top of that, usually it will not have papers, pedigree, desexing or even basic immunisation, or microchipping, worming, or flea treatment. And here are the lies that different pet shops have used:"It's illegal to desex a kitten for sale in a pet shop" - FALSE! They use this as an excuse for being too IRRESPONSIBLE to do it."This breed is always this expensive." - RUBBISH. Most "purebred" kittens in a pet shop have NO PAPERS, and you never find out who bred them or what the kitten really is at all! Its mother and father might be brother and sister or the father might be the stray tom cat from down the street. Are you sure that the kitten will not have serious health problems?"Oh, kittens only need one vaccination and one worming in their first year." - LIES! Your local vet will tell you which ones you need and how often, which depends on how the kitten will live and where. But it is ALWAYS more than this!"You should not use flea treatment on a kitten." - Pardon?"Kittens are ready for their new home as soon as they are litter trained." - No, they're not - and pet shops are the worst offenders for selling them when they are much too tiny. They know you'll love the tinier ones more and pay more for it. They don't care that it is worse for the cat.Buying from a pet shop just encourages the backyard breeders - the people who grab two random cats of the same breed, stick them together and don't care about the kittens except for the $ signs. They often continue to breed cats that have health problems or the "wrong" features for that breed. Proper breeders choose parents carefully, space out litters to ensure the health of the mother, and make sure the kittens are perfectly healthy, well-socialised - and NEVER sold in a pet shop! A reputable breeder will invite you to their home. The kittens will be amongst the family and used to normal house noises (not the noise of a glass cage at the pet shop).There is a wealth of information on the internet on which breed is right for you. Look around and get some information before you are face to face with the kittens. It's hard to walk away if they make you fall in love!

GLOSSARY OF FABRICS

ANTIQUE SATIN a sateen or horizontal satin drapery fabric with horizontal (weft) slubs which imitate spun shantung silk. It is typically composed of approximately 60% rayon (the face yarn fiber) and 40% acetate (the back yarn fiber). Most fabrics are one color from a selection of thousands. Occasionally the warp and weft yarns are dyed different colors to give an iridescent effect. Antique satin may also be printed. It is also suitable for bedspread fabric as it can be quilted.BATIK a process also know as Tjap where areas are opaqued with wax before the fabric is dyed. For two or more colors each preceding wax layer is removed and reapplied in a different patterned layer. A crinkled pattern is achieved by crumpling the fabric and cracking the wax. Primitive or ethnic batik patterns from Indonesia and Africa are reproduced by mechanical silk screen or roller printing on contemporary fabrics.BROCADE a multi-use formal, Jacquard weave with supplemental warp or weft woven into the fabric to give an embroidered, often-colorful design. Background weave is often satin. Threads not tied-down are carried as "floaters" on the back of the fabric and indicate the supplemental set of threads.BROCATELLE medium weight Jacquard fabric utilizing four or more sets of thread (two warps and two wefts most often). Finely woven brocatelles are formal, refined and sophisticated. Surface has slight relief variation (high and low areas), according to the patterns, and may appear embroidered or puffy.CALICO cotton or cotton/polyester fabric similar to broadcloth and usually printed in small "country" all-over multi-colored floral patterns.CANVAS versatile medium to heavy weight cotton fabric in plain or twill weave. May be dyed any color, and has many uses.CASEMENT casual drapery fabric in loose or tight, open or closed, plain or novelty weave. Often given interesting texture, color and pattern through tyed complex-yarn arrangements and weave variations. Usually semi-sheer, translucent or opaque.CASHMERE from the Cashmere goat in Tibet, the Kashmir province in India. It is known for its softness.CHAMBRAY lightweight cotton or blend fabric in plain, balanced weave. Yarns are slightly slubbed in both directions. Warp is usually white with a solid colored weft.CHEVRON regular and repeated zigzag pattern, also called herringbone, formed by reversing the twill weave.CREPE - a fine yarn which is twisted so tightly that it gives a pebbly or crinkled surface in woven fabrics. Crepe fabrics may be plain or satin weave and include the following types of crepes: Canton crepe (heavier with ribs), Chiffon crepe (soft finish), Crepe de Chine (sheer, limp), Crepon crepe (fine ribs), Flat crepe (smooth surface), and Plisse crepe (puckered or crinkled surface).CREWELEMBROIDERY basket weave base cloth of cotton, linen or wool, with hand or machine embroidery of worsted wool. Patterns are meandering vine and floral motifs based on the East Indian tree-of-life designs and their English interpretations.DAMASK formal satin base Jacquard fabric with reversible pattern, historically a large floral or Renaissance pattern. Contemporary damasks are medium weight in a variety of designs. Used in nearly any decorative fabric situation.DENIM cotton or cotton/polyester left-hand twill weave cloth which is practical and sturdy. Navy colored denim is Jeans fabric, cream or white denim is Drill.EMBROIDERY a thread or set of threads sewn onto a fabric for surface ornamentation. Embroidery may be done as piece work or one-of-a-kind embroidered cloths. Hand-guided machine embroidery is the method generally used for crewel embroidery. Machine embroidery for mass production is called Schiffli embroidery.FLANNEL any fabric that is woven then brushed to achieve a soft nap. Types include cotton, flannelette, outing (for outerwear), French (finely twilled), melton (cotton and/or wool dense weave), and suede top-sided nap trimmed and pressed).FLOCK the material obtained by reducing textile fibers to fragments by cutting or grinding. There are two main types precision cut flock, where all fiber lengths are approximately equal, and random cut flock, where the fibers are ground or chopped to produce a broad range of lengths.FLOCKING a method of cloth ornamentation in which adhesive is printed or coated on a fabric, and finely chopped fibers are applied all over by means of dusting, air-blasting or electrostatic attraction. In flock printing, the fibers adhere only to the printed areas and are removed from the unprinted areas by mechanical action.FRIEZE OR FRISE upholstery weight looped pile fabric often of nylon, which is very sturdy. May be Jacquard woven to achieve a sculptural or ribbed effect.HERRINGBONE a novelty or complex twill which has a regular zigzag pattern. Woven or printed on light, medium, and heavy weight fabrics.HOUNDSTOOTH medium to heavy weight fabric with woven twill pattern that resembles squares with projecting "tooth-like" corners.LISSERIE a fine Jacquard woven stripe imitating silk and embroidery. The figuring and color in the pattern comes from the warp.MATELESSE a heavy upholstery-weight textile in Jacquard weave with two sets of warps and wefts. Surface appears puffy or cushioned. Also called double cloth.MOHAIR fiber from the Angora goat.MOIRE formal ribbed faille fabric embossed with a watermark pattern. A highly versatile fabric. Has many interior applications.OTTOMAN natural or man-made fibers woven in a medium to heavy weight fabric with broad, round weft threads that produce a horizontal rib. Fine warp threads obscure the large, even or alternate size filling yarns.PEAU DE SOIE a French term, meaning literally "skin of silk" applied originally to a fine silk fabric in a modified satin weave that had a ribbed or grained appearance.PILE FABRIC fabric with a third element; an extra warp or weft set, woven or knitted into the fabric to produce a deep surface texture. Examples include velvet, terry cloth, frieze or corduroy.PLAID woven or printed design consisting of stripes in both warp and weft directions which cross at intervals to form different colors in square or rectangular patterns. May be light, medium or heavy weight, depending on the yarn. Plaids may be plain or twill weave. Types include: tartans (Scottish clan plaids) and plaid-back (reversible plaid).PLISSE a sheer, thin or lightweight fabric given a blistered or puckered surface through chemical treatments.REP, REPP a ribbed fabric (horizontal or vertical ribs) between poplin and ottoman fabric in both rib size and weight. Durable medium to heavy fabric. Many applications. High quality reps are often woven of wool.SATIN a basic type of weave where warp threads float over up to eight weft threads, then are tied down with one weft thread. Fine threads yield a smooth, slick, lustrous surface. Light to medium weight. Types of satin include: antique (with horizontal slubs to imitate shantung), lining satin (lightweight drapery lining), ribbed satin (resembles faille, or calendered into satin moire), satin damask (background satin with jacquard pattern-in lighter weight is known as ticking satin), and upholstery satin (heavier weight satins).SCRIM - Sheer open weave cotton fabric used for draperies and window decorating.SHABBY CHIC a look reflecting casual and relaxed lifestyles. Emphasis is on a soft touch, neutral colors and often a puckered, washed or unfinished look.SEERSUCKER crinkled surface in all-over or spaced stripes, permanently woven into a cotton or blend fabric, or induced through chemical treatments. Puckers tend to be more durable than plisse when chemically treated. Permanent puckers are woven in by loosening or relaxing some warp threads. Light to medium weight.SHANTUNG DUPIONI originally a spun silk fabric with slubs that formed interesting textures. Shantung today may be of many natural or synthetic fibers. Fabrics which imitate shantung are antique satin and antique taffeta.SUEDECLOTH a light to medium weight synthetic knit or woven textile with brushed nap which imitates genuine suede.TAPESTRY a plain weave technique used to produce complex, hand-woven European pictorial designs. These are now, most often, Jacquard woven with multiple warps and wefts.TICKING originally a twill blue and cream vertical, woven striped fabric used to make "ticks" or mattress and pillow casings. Historically used on walls, also for draperies and other interior uses. Mattress ticking may also be satin damask ticking, or ticking damask.TISSUE PICK- Term which describes supplementary filling yarn or yarns which "float"along the back of fabric in bands, and are brought up in selected areas for added color detail on the face of a fabric.TOILE a fabric of cotton or linen similar to muslin or percale in plain or sometimes twill weave. It is an unglazed chintz. Types include: toile de Touy (historic French scenes, Federal toile (American Federal Buildings and eagles), country toile (Contemporary Provincial floral) and toiles de Indy (Historic East Indian printed designs). Chinese toiles (Oriental designs and scenes), Rococo toiles (large-scale contemporary Rococo prints).TOILE DE JOUY Toile fabrics printed in one color (traditionally navy, cranberry or black) in rural country French scenes and of people from the 18th and 19th centuries.TUFTED FABRIC a pile fabric which is formed by tufting a yarn into a woven background. Early American tufted bedspreads are one example. Some upholstery fabrics and all tufted carpets utilize this method. The fabric may be tufted with a small hand-held tufting gun, or on a large machine utilizing multiple needles to tuft entire sections in rapid sequence.TWEED upholstery weight textile in plain balanced or variation weave, (originally) twill weave or variation. Plain and twill weaves may be combined in some novelty tweeds. Made first of wool in Scotland. Todays tweeds may be of wool, nylon or a combination of natural and man-made fibers in solid colors, also heathered effect or plaid.VELOUR a pile fabric with a soft, velvet-like texture including some velvet, and all plush-pile surface cloths.VELVET Woven pile fabric with a soft yet sturdy face. May be of one or more fibers, including nearly all-natural and man-made fibers. Types include: antique velvet ("streaks" pressed or woven in; slubs on woven back), brocade (etch printed or burnout patterns, often exposing the woven background), chiffon (thin, soft velvet); crushed (varies from light to very heavy crushing of pile), electrostatic (flocked, rather than woven pile, usually bold color and pattern), embossed (bas relief roller calendering to produced "pressed in" pattern), moquette (exposed ground with floral historic patterns of cut and uncut looped pile in jacquard weave), panne (flat pile, pressed in one direction), plush (deeper pile, sometimes sparse and crushed), upholstery (deep thick pile and sturdy back), velveteen (short, cotton-faced pile and back), printed velveteen (roller or screen printed, typically in floral or geometric patterns).VINYL extruded polyvinyl chloride synthetic fabric flowed onto a woven, knitted, or non-woven base cloth. Medium to heavy weight upholstery fabric which imitates leather.VOILE sheer transparent fabric in plain weave with tightly twisted yarns. Often has a stiff finish. May have novelty effects such as pique stripes, printed patterns and stripes, or woven with nubby yarns for novelty voile

What Is - HTML - Quick Guide

Stamps Australia Online

Guide to Magnetic Therapy

What is Magnetic Therapy?Magnetic Therapy is the placement of magnets on or close to the body to alleviate pain and/or illness. It can be applied in many cases of acute, and chronic pain as well as a number of illnesses without side effects. (See precautions below)Background/HistoryMagnetic therapy dates back to ancient times and is one of the oldest natural therapeutic treatments known to man.A medical text from around 2000 B.C. in China refers to the use of magnets to correct various health problems.Today, many people are turning to natural therapy as an alternative to traditional western remedies such as drugs and surgery. It is is an established practise in a number of countries, including Japan, China, India, Austria, Germany and used widely in the US, Britain, Australia and many other countries in Europe.Magnetic MittensAbout Magnetic TherapyThe effectiveness of Magnetic Therapy depends on the following:Strength of the magnet.Type of magnet.Thickness of the magnet.Thickness or spacing of the pad between the skin and the magnet.Magnets work best when close to the body. Keep this in mind when comparing underlays - especially those with a thick cover such as wool underlays where the space between the magnets and your body increase according to the thickness of the wool cover - wool can add 3-5 cms between the magnet and your body !!!Accordingly, a thick,luxurious, woollen underlay would be a great aid in providing relaxation and helping to get a restful night's sleep andgiving some relief for diabetic neuropathy, night cramps and poor periperheral blood flow but would be of limited value in treating acute or chronicpain in and of itself.Woollen

Live Quotes For Buying Precious Metals, Gold

Stamps Australia OnlineWhen buying gold or silver it is a good idea to see what the current silver or gold prices are before you bid. You may find a gold or silver coin for example which has the value on the coin as being $10 though lets say for this example that the coin weighs 10 grams. If the 10 gram coin was gold it would mean thatat present gold prices would be worth around AU $250, and if the 10 gram coin was silver it would be worth around $5according to current silver prices. These values are taken from current silver and gold prices and do not consider the rarity of the coin itself which can increase the coin value dramatically.Though knowing what the current price of gold and silver is can be very useful to know before making any decision to commit to bid or buy an item. There are several good web-sites available that offer precious metal quotes, though not all of them are free to use. I suggest you try using www.kitco.com which is a free site that offers reliable precious metal quotes in Kilos and Ounces. The site also has the option to view current metal quotes in different currencies, Australian, US, Canadian, South African, Euro, Pounds, Swiss and Japanese Yen are all available. Kitco also has an option to view "Historical Charts" which allows you to make a comparison from last months prices to this months current price, you can make comparisons in prices on Gold, Silver, Platinum, Palladium and Rhodium as far back as 1994.If you find www.kitco.com to be useful or you shall be continuing to dabble in buying or selling precious metals it would be a good idea to add kitco to your favorites list so you can access the site easierly whenever needed.

AVOID EBAY MOTOR SCAMS 14 STEPS

Overview:I am writing this guide in regards to myexperiences on eBay motors. Firstly, eBay does provide a great medium for users to find a specific car and price with very little hassle. However, there are the occassional scammers out there who try to take advantage of honest eBayers. Before I explain the steps one should take before purchasing a vehicle on eBay, I would like to give you a personal account of where I almost fell victim to the samepopular scam many eBay users fall into. I believe by explaining my situation, it will at the very least allow you to become more aware ofhow to avoidpossible scams on eBay Motors.Brief Example Story:After searching for a car on eBay motors, I came across a great deal for a 2001 holden commodorewith 49ks , in great condition, and still undercommodore warranty (100ks bumper to bumper).The listing was extremely detailed, describing every modification, and/or repair done to the vehicle. In the listing, the seller claimed to have Cancer and said the bills were piling up. He also stated he was selling the car priced tosell fastwith a Relatively low Buy-It Now. The eBay user ID had a 100% feedback rating of23. I found thislistingway too good to be true,anddecided to question the seller about the vehicle viaeBaymessages(Ask a Seller a Question feature). Soon, the Auction ended and I never received a response. However, about 4 days later I received an E-Mail from the sellerin the early morning, stating he is extremely sorry he could not get back to me sooner. He heavily apologized, and stated hewas in the hospital during the week,undergoing treatment for his Cancer. He then went on to answer my questions regarding the vehicle for sale (*his writing was very fragmented--broken english). He then stated thatif I was still interested in purchasing the vehicle, it would be sold onlyTHROUGH eBay, so that the buyer is protected under the eBaybuyer protection policy (describing it in detail). He then stated that he would set up aPrivate Buy-It-NowAuction for me, and asked for my user name and registered email address. At first, I had no problem giving my eBay ID, but I was hesitant to give my email address. However, after figuring that this is something he would get anyways if I was to buy anything online,I said OK. After feeling secured by the eBay Protection Policy, I emailed him back with my ID and email address, and statedif he was to once again list the car on eBay, exactly as described before, with the same specifications, along with giving me a contact number to reach him by, I wouldstill beinterested in purchasing the vehicle. The next day, I received a response from him stating he has made the proper arrangements with eBay, and that I would be receiving a Link to the Private Auction--either through him or eBay. I quickly received an email from members@ebay.com that appeared exactly like a message from eBay. In addition, he also emailed me with a direct link, statingthat it would direct me to the private auction.Scammer Detected:The link appeared to be an eBay link, it was something like http://cgi.ebay.privateauction.somethingelsewithnumbers . Alarms went off in my head, because I'vereceived PayPal spoof emails in the past. Ilogged directly into eBay, through ebay.com,checked my messages, and received noidentical message from eBay. I then looked at the message, which was supposedly from eBay, and noticed that they did not address me by my Paypal name (which one could get by using your registered email address, and searchingpaypal.com with it), and did not address me by my eBay User ID. The person had both of what I had given, and stilldid notinclude it in the email. So either I was dealing withone of the dumbest scammers in the world, or he figured I could've faked my user ID and email, and simply chose to not include it in the email. With all this being said, it was safe to conclude, this guy was trying to scam me. I fowarded the fake emails to eBay, and reported thepossibly hacked/hijackedUser ID.After this experience, I have since been able to have sucessful transactions through eBay motors and would definately recommend this medium to anyone who is interested in purchasing a vehicle. However, if you are consideringpurchasing a vehicle on eBay motors, I would highly recommend the following steps before proceeding with your purchase.Steps to take before purchasing a vehicle on eBay Motors:Make sure both you AND the seller are located in the Australia. Remember, your eBay Protection Policy will be voided if you are buying a car from a seller outside the AUS. Even if it seems like a great deal, it may not be worth the risk.Make sure the car/truck is listed in the CORRECT eBay Motors category of CARS(not parts, etc). This is one of the more popular eBay scams. Sellers post outside the correct category knowing that it is something the buyer may have overlooked, and therefore, may not be protected under eBay's policies.Do NOT purchase the car OUTSIDE of Ebay. Ifthey say it's a Private Auction, or send you ANY Links, stating it was from eBay, Log in to your account DIRECTLY through eBay.com, and check your Messages. If you have not received anything from eBay, they are definately scamming you. Also, any messages they send you, should go directly through eBay.com. If they are contacting you via E-Mail, you should definately be cautious.Ask the Seller for additional specific pictures of the car. If they cannot give you them, or say theyare unable to at the time, they areprobably looking to scam you (e.g. Ask for specific pictures of the Odometer, specific pictures of the interior, or any other pictures that aren't shown in the listing, that would be helpful in your decision). These pictures will help you determine if the vehicle is in their possession and/or give you greater insight on the vehicle.Always get a CarFax Report before purchasing ANY vehicle. These reports let you know how many owners the vehicle has had, if the vehicle has ever failed inspection, been in major accidents (front end collisions), or if the engine has ever been rebuilt, given a salvaged title, etc.Always get a Contact Number and talk to the person through phone before purchasing the vehicle. This will help you further in determining if the seller is honest or not. You can also ask them detailed questions on the vehicle. If they cannot provide you with a number, give you an excuse, orcompletely avoid this request, they are most likely looking torip you off.Always look at their feedback. Check to see if they have sold Cars through eBay before. If not, then I highly recommend you be very intimiate with your questioning. Contact the users repeatedly. Establish a communication with them through eBay messages (therefore you have eBay logs), and remember to get a contact number.If the Car is being sold within your State, Ask if you can come see the car in person. If your email is being avoided, or you are given excuses about not being able to see the car in person, it's probably ascam. All legitimate sellerswill allow you to check out the vehicle in person.If the person responds to your messages in broken english BE VERY CAUTIOUS. Many times Scammers hijack accounts and use them to post fraudlent sales, especially on eBay Motors. These hijacked accounts are 'mostly'done byout of country users.If a Seller states anythingin the Auction that says, "Don't use the Ask a Seller a Question feature to contact me because [insert their excuse here]" it'sa scam. The reason they are doing this is because when you Ask a Seller a Question through eBay, an E-Mail is automatically sent to the authorized registered E-Mail address (therefore, if they hijacked the ID, the actual user of the account will be notified that their account is currently in use, with anactive Auction--an unauthorized Auction at that, and as such will be able to contact eBay to have their account PW reset, or entire account deactivated). All legitimate sellers on eBay (especially on eBay motors) will allow you to contact them through Ask a Seller a Question. Don't believe any excuse about "I can't reach this E-Mail" or "It no longer exists." The correct authorized user of the account can, at any time, easily change the registered email or contact address by verifying their own personal account information. If an Auction is only open to PRE-APPROVED Bidders, BE ALERT. Most scammers do this so that you are forced to contact them outside of eBay. By doing so,they can obtain your E-Mail address, and lure you outside of eBay's domainwith spoof E-Mails. Only answer messages DIRECTLY through your eBay Messages. When asking a Seller a question, I recommend hiding your E-Mail address(there is an option for this when using the Ask a Seller a Question Feature). The seller shouldbe able to answer you directly through eBay messages. If they ignore your message, or they begin to offer you deals outside of eBay, send youPrivate Auctions, etc...it'sa scam. ASK MORE AND MORE Questions about the car before purchasing ANY vehicle. Many times, individual sellers and/or dealers will negate to mention certain aspects about the car. How's the engine run? Are there any Leaks? How's the transmission? Any dings, dents, or any other cosmetic problems I should know about? Will the car pass inspection? Has the car been in any major accidents? (check the CarFax),How's the interior? Any major cosmetic problems to the interior? Smoke-Free car? If you can't physically test the vehicle, sellers will understand the need to question various aspects about the vehicle, which were not listed. Afterall, you don't want to end up putting more money into repairing the vehicle, than what you spent purchasing it.USE YOUR INSTINCTS. I cannot stress this enough. If a deal seems to good to be true, 99% of the time, it is.Make sure you read all the details of eBay's Buyer Protection Policy, and learn how toSTAY covered under this policy. Sometimes, the slightest adjustment may cause theProtection Policy to be voided.These are the stepsI recommend you do, before purchasing ANY vehicle on eBay motors. Remember, it's YOUR Money that you are investing. ANY Honest seller should be able to answerall of your questions/concerns via Phone.Don't be afraid to get personal with the car, because, afterall, if everything goes right, it will be your car. I wrote this Guide as a Buyer Beware, especially for the risks, we eBay Motorist take when purchasing vehicles online. I hope at the very least, it has made you more aware of the possible scams on eBay and how togo aboutpurchasing avehicle safely.It is inNO WAY a definitive guide, butthese steps have helped me greatly in determiningwhat deals are real, and which are scams on eBay (in One week, Icame across 4scams). And remember! eBay is a great place to find great deals on cars, just make sure you're actually getting a deal, and not getting Dealt. Best of luck to you, and HappyBidding,Your Friendly Neighborhood eBayer =)