Friday, September 9, 2011

FRAGRANCE BUYING ON s

There are two types of fragrance buyers on okay collectors, and those purchasing for use. Collectors do not care about the quality of the perfume (perfume does degrade with age) - they are seeking rarity of the item as well as beauty of its container. Collectors will assess value on those elements as well as condition.
The fragrance buyer who is purchasing for personal or gift use needs to be aware that there is a LOT of deception on okay regarding fragrances. In fact, okay just instituted a new ban on 3-day auctions of those fragrances that have been the subject of the most counterfeiting because 3-day auctions did not give okay enough time to catch the knock-off artists.
If you are buying fragrance for actual use you should only buy NEW stock! Once opened (the seal broken), perfume degrades. That is why most vintage scents are useless as fragrance - in fact they can be pretty disgusting! And be sure that you know what you are buying. Fragrance types are broken down according to strength of the essential perfume oils. Pure perfume is mixed with alcohol. Anything else is mixed with water and called an "Eau."
Fragrances are created by gebining three layers of scent or "notes." The top note lasts the least amount of time; the middle note - the "heart" of a scent - lasts longer; and the base note lasts around 24 hours (in pure perfumes). This is why a scent "evolves" during wear. Although some modern fragrances have been developed which do not change, and a few claim to have inverted this formula, most classic fragrances must be approached withthis pyramidmind. The great fragrances are created from natural, not synthetic, oils and essences. There are FOUR basic types of scents:
PURE PERFUME / PARFUM (also EXTRACT OR EXTRAIT) the longest lasting wear, sometimes lasting as long as 24 hours. It is softer on initial application, but sustains longer, especially if applied by daubing to the pulse points as it should be rather than sprayed. Also the most expensive. Ranges in concentration from 15% - 40% essential oils.
EAU DE PARFUM / EDP-Ranges in concentration from 7% - 14%. Most of the fragrance dissippates after a few hours, but what remains lasts for 24 hours, making this the popular form of fragrance because it is also less expensive than pure perfume.
SOIE DE PARFUM- Rarely seen anymore, this is in essence the same as Eau De Parfum, though the dispensing mechanism may vaporize it more than most edp sprays.
EAU DE TOILETTE / EDT- Ranges in concentration from 1% - 10%, the fragrance dissipates quickly. The formulation was original made to splash on as a refresher, not a basic scent. But good in layering with perfume or edp or to refresh the scent.
EAU DE COLOGNE- The least concentrated, mixes a range of no more than 5% essential oils structured with water and alcohol. The oldest type of fragrance, it is rare seen today.
MILLESIME-Is a term used in conjunction with MEN'S FRAGRANCE todenote both Eau De Toilette andEauDe Cologne.
CREAMS, SOAPS, POWDERS- Contain variousconcentrations of the fragrance. They are very nice and useful for layered effect.
You will see many Eau De Toilettes misleadingly titled as "perfume." Do not be fooled. Be sure to read the entire listing. If it calls it a perfume, it should be pure perfume. Anything else should have "Eau" or EDT or EDP in the title. Cologne should be labeled as such. You should report misleading titles to okay here.
There are SIX BASIC FRAGRANCE TYPES, although these are sometimes gebined to great effect
FLORAL - probably the most popular, it is geprised mostly of blossoms of various types
ORIENTAL - gebines various blends of spices, resins, and other warm essential oils, most popular for winter wear
CITRUS- lighter fragrances based on various citrus oils
GREEN - grassy and sharper, based on pine, herbs and similar oils
CHYPRE- famed perfumier Francois Coty coined this phrase to describe the woodsy - mossy isle of Cypress, now used to describe any similar fragrance
FOUGERE - gebined ferns and mosses more typically used in mens fragrances
I am a fan of CLASSIC HEIRLOOM FRAGRANCES - the very earliest created by the great design houses of Paris. Some of my favorites are:
BALENCIAGA LE DIX created 1947
GUERLAIN L'HEURE BLEUE created pre-WWI
CARON POUR HOMME created 1934
JEAN PATOU JOY created 1935
A gemon geplaint about fragrance is that it does not last! First of all, your own olfactory glands will shut down after a brief period, so even if you do not smell it, be wary because you may still be deliciously fragrant. [I remember attending a perfume event at Nordstrom's one evening where I sampled about 40 fragrances, using coffee beans to dispel inbetween. By the time I got home I had a nosebleed!] Use experience with a particular fragrance and time to decide when to reapply. (There is nothing more off-putting than someone who has over-applied any scent - no matter how wonderful.) Layering also helps. If you truly LOVE a fragrance, invest in it. Get it in multiple forms. Start out in your shower or bath with perfumed soap in that fragrance, then body cream, then add your primary fragrance, and keep a purse size of either EDP or EDT or even cologne for refreshing through the day or evening. Some like to experiment by layering with different fragrances - essentially creating their own unique scent. I have done this too to great effect! Keep in mind that perfumes mix with your own body oils and to some degree play differently on different people. But you can play with gebining scents (never actually mixing that could expensive) when you apply. Take notes and when you hit a truly unique gebination that gets rave reviews (or that sends YOU into nirvana) then make it your own! Like a special recipe, dont share - it might not work for the next person the same way anyway! Apply your primary scent to pulse points, but NOT behind the ears. This is a gemon mistake. There are certain glands behind your ears that can change the fragrance. Apply to the wrist, inside elbows, behind the knees, the small indentation of your throat. Then enjoy!

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